The information on this website results from the many trips we have made, these are not recommendations just ideas. People like different thing and places. We are NOT advertising anywhere and receive no payment for any of the information contained here.
Getting there
Being an island there are only two ways to get to Lesvos – by air or by sea.
Flights
All flights to the island arrive at Mytilini International Airport (MYT) just south of the island’s main town of Mytilini.
Charter flights operate from various airports in the UK and Europe – normally starting in May (sometimes earlier from Europe), the Netherlands, Sweden, Denmark, Germany and several other European countries.
Scheduled flights, via Aegean Airlines, to Athens and then a connection to Mytilini International Airport. The new airport terminal is scheduled to open to passengers for the first flights on Thursday, 6 February, 2021.
Lesvos is also linked with a direct flight to Thessaloniki. BA operate a flight between London Gatwick and Thessaloniki enabling you to return to the UK without the need of going via Athens (unless you need to connect with another UK airport).
It is impossible to cover and explain the flight situation here as it is a very fluid situation. Use of the internet and a search engine will show the various options, it is then a personal choice which one to use and is often driven by when you want to visit.
Ferries
Lesvos is served with daily ferries from Pireaus (Athens) to Mytilini. The 12-hour journey is usually overnight, leaving Pireaus in the evening and arriving at the island the next morning.
Further information
The Pireaus ferry services also connect Lesvos with other nearby Greek islands including Chios and Limnos.
Where to stay
There are many options for accommodation on Lesvos and it comes down to personal choice which type people use. Internet searches will show the majority of available hotels and apartments. Likewise it is entirely down to personal choice where you decide to base yourself, wherever is chosen each area has its own merits.
Skala Kallonis
is centrally placed right in the centre of the island at the northern end of the Gulf of Kalloni, ideal for exploring the whole island with ease and is the !rst choice for many visiting birders. Many of the island’s main birding sites are on the doorstep – Skala Kallonis Pool (when wet), Tsiknias and Christou (Kameras) rivers, Kalloni Saltpans, Metochi Lake, etc, as well as very good road links to the rest of the island.
Anaxos – is slowly establishing itself as the birders resort of the north coast. Its a small beach resort which is deserted in spring so the few birders who stay here have the place to themselves. Great access to the under-watched northern coastline with good roads east, west and south.
Molivos (Mithymna) – is a town with two names! The Medieval name of Molyvos is still preferred to the contemporary name of Mythimna. The town is situated in the very north of the island and is just over an hours drive from Mytilini (and most other parts of the island) and half an hour from Kalloni.
Molyvos is Lesvos’s tourist capital and shows other places how to do it! It is truly spectacular and even at the busiest time of year it can still be a realxed place to be. The town is set on a hill rising up from its picturesque harbour to its Medieval castle, sitting atop the town like a crown. From the castle you can spectacular views of the island across as far as Ipsilou in the west, as well as across the sea to neighbouring Turkey.
Molyvos is a great place to base yourself. The north coast track along to Skala Sikaminias is great for migrants and breeding birds, and most of the main birding areas are all about an hours drive away.
Vatera – is situated on the south coast, Vatera has the longest beach on the island. This is a real package holiday hotspot and during peak season can be absolutely bustling.
During the spring birding season however, the place is deserted and makes a good base with its own good local areas to explore (inc. the Almiropotamos River, Agios Fokas, Ambeliko Valley), allows regular visits to the Polichnitos Saltpans but is a bit of a drive to the other main birding hotspots inc Kalloni (c. 45 mins drive), the north Coast (70+ mins) and Sigri (up to 2 hrs). But don’t let this put you o” staying here, exploring a much neglected area and shun the birding crowds around the Kalloni main area. Very few of them will bother you down here!
Sigri
lies at the extreme western end of the island. Few birders stay here, presumably because it’s simply too far from anywhere else, including a 2- hour drive to and from the airport at Mytilini.
The Sigri area is however one of the best birding areas on the island and boasts some of the best migrant areas which can easily take up most, if not all, of your holiday. You will see other birders here as no matter where they may be staying, everyone will go to Sigri at least once during their stay – it’s that good! But early mornings and evenings you will have to yourself as those travelling across from other parts of the island arrive mid-morning and leave early evening to get back for dinner.
Skala Polichnitos is situated in a wetland area a little north of Vatera Beach in the Bay of Kalloni. It is the area where find the second group of salt pans numbers of birds. The village of Polichnitos has some tavernas around and near the harbour.
Other resorts
Few places are open in early spring but alternative places for birders to stay which will have some accommodation during spring (but may take some hunting down) include Skala Eresou (in the south-west) and Petra in the north.
Plomari is very much out on a limb from the main sites, and Mytilini is simply not suitable for most wildlife-interested folk, and again away from the main birding sites.
Where to eat
All the villages have tavernas, different people have their own favourites.
Be aware that many places aren’t open during the spring birding weeks, with some opening by mid-May, but others not opening until the main season starts in June.
Skala Kallonis
the harbour area of the village has a number of tavernas, but here are just a few.
Dionysos – owned by Stamatis and Maria – right on the harbour front, is one of the birders ‘homes’ in Skala Kallonis. It offers a large and varied menu to suit all. Excellent, friendly service and value. They simply have too many good dishes to start listing.
Sea Horse – on the sea front out of the main town square with a good menu.
Madousa – on the seafront between the square and the car park – is an excellent family run taverna. It doesn’t open until mid-May, so early birders won’t get the chance to eat here.
Molivos (Mithymna) – the harbour area is crammed with tavernas.
One of the favourite tavernas on the island is Mistral on the harbour. Excellent food, especially the seafood and fish.
For good coffee, ice creams and snacks try the cafés Briki (first on harbour front by the car park opposite the harbour chapel).
Sea Horse is also good – especially for ice creams!
In the town centre, try the taverna just through the arch on the left as you come up from hill. It has great food and a great balcony and view! Use the Taverna Panorama by the castle for drinks if you need them.
When at Molivos harbour make sure you check out the little gallery which faces the harbour – it’s great for Greek and Mediterranean art and crafts as well as souvenirs and nick-knacks.
Kavaki – overlooking the southern Rüppell’s Warbler lay-by is the fabulously contemporary café Tsalikis. Simple bar-style menu for snacks, and excellent coffee, homemade cakes and ice creams. With the added bonus of the views – you can watch Rüppell’s Warbler and Blue Rock-thrush from your seat!
Petri – there are a number of tavernas along the beachfront.
Sigri – Australia, one of the tavernas overlooking the harbour front, is excellent – try their fresh fried prawns and fresh fish. The owner Costas is never happier than when his taverna is full of hungry birders. Tell him that Phil and Paul sent you! Next door is the Cafe To Kentron, excellent for a coffee and snack.
Skala Eressou – there are many beach tavernas and bars here. Just look for the ones patronised by the Greeks!
Soulatso (mid-way along front) specialises in grilled fish, seafood and meat, and the Soulatso salad is excellent. The
Flamingo is excellent for good coffee, drinks, snacks and ice creams. It also offers free Wi-Fi internet whilst you’re sipping and snacking! Adonis (at the western end) is another taverna with a great Greek kitchen menu including local specialty – roasted lambs head.
Vatera – as with many real tourist traps good tavernas can be hard to come by in places like Vatera, but the Akrotiri is an excellent fish taverna situated on the headland of Agios Fokas to the west of the town. There is the Vatera Beach Hotel, on the seafront heading towards Agios Fokas. The rest of the resort will be shut in spring!
Skala Sikamineas
is a small picturesque fishing village east of Molyvos, on the north of the island. It has a harbour with many tavernas and a picturesque white church on a rock.
Near Mytilene airport – Taverna Liminaki is just a few km towards Mytilini from the airport on the beach side of the road. It does great fresh fish – a real welcome and tonic after that flight or a great way to say goodbye!
Ad hoc
If you’re away from the main areas, don’t be afraid to eat in any of the small town tavernas. Look for those with old men sipping Greek coffee and eating local dishes. Vatousa, Skala Vasilikon, Skalochori – they all have tavernas primarily for local custom. Many will have an English version of their menu, if not, then you’ll just have to brush up on your Greek and pointing! It can be great fun and you’ll be surprised at just how good and simple eating at the ‘local’s’ tavernas can be.
Getting Around
Remember that public transport is not as extensive or regular as we are used to at ‘home’. How you decide to get around really depends on how far you want to go. If you stay in Skala Kallonis and only intend to birdwatch in that area some people just hire a bike and cycle.
Car hire
There are a number of car hire options. Collect at the airport, some will meet you at the airport and collect at the end of the holiday, deliver to your hotel or, you collect from their premises. It is very important to think about your insurance and entirely a personal choice as what level you take out.
Driving on the island
Metalled roads
The island’s roads are going through a major transformation due to European Union funding and all the main routes between major towns are now metalled. The most recent upgrades include the north/south Kalloni to Mandamados
route through the well-known birding area of the Napi valley and an improved road in and out of Mytilini to the west of the town. The road between Sigri and Antissa is undergoing a massive upgrade. During excavations for the road changes many petrified trees have been found and saved.
A metalled roads can lull the visiting driver into a false sense of security. Just because you’re driving on smooth tarmac doesn’t mean you should forget you are still driving on a small, rural island and all the hazards that come with it. Be prepared for potholes, fallen or falling rocks (especially after heavy rain), flash floods after heavy rain, slow moving local traffic (particularly the farmers in antique tractors and precariously loaded trailers), vehicles parked in unexpected and at time dangerous places (farmers again), and even the occasional bit of wildlife – tortoises are a favourite car-stopper! Be aware and always avoid snakes or glass lizards crossing, if at all possible. Even more important be aware that driving standards away from Lesvos are different, you may be overtaken in an place you do not agree with, or, a vehicle may approach you in the middle of the road. Remember, the vast majority of people doing this are locals and they know the roads far better than we do, don’t abuse them.
Moderate your speed. There is no need to tear around the island as if you are back home. Apart from being a danger to yourself and others on unfamiliar roads, you stand more chance of seeing things of interest along the roadside or flying overhead if you are driving slowly and carefully.
In towns and villages, many roads are one lane only, so be prepared to give way and don’t speed. Pay attention to road signs as one-way systems are common (inc. in Kalloni and Mytilini). Also, in built up areas it is an offence to turn across the lane of incoming traffic into car parks. You can only turn across the lane of incoming traffic at road junctions. Police will fine tourists for such misdemeanours.
On most roads you’ll be able to stop and park safely if you do see something of interest. Park carefully away from bends and road junctions. You don’t always have to get your vehicle off the road if others can pass safely. Do not block track entrances unless you are staying with the vehicle and can move it instantly if needed. Locals should not be inconvenienced by your desire to see something.
If pulling off a metalled road, then take care with the verge-side drop from the tarmac, and only pull off if you can see that it is safe to do so. Beware drainage ditches, hidden holes and rocks within roadside vegetation.
Non-metalled routes
Away from the main routes, the roads vary from narrow metalled roads and dirt tracks of various widths and state of repair. When driving on any non-metalled surface you should take appropriate care for both your own and the other road users’ safety. Stones and small rocks can be kicked up even at slow speeds which can cause damage to your own vehicle, and even more damage to passing vehicles and pedestrians.
If you are visiting in any of the wetter months (including April) or during periods of unexpected, heavy showers, be extremely careful on these routes, particularly the lesser-used tracks in the remoter areas, beware of puddles – they might be a lot deeper than you think and could cause damage to the car.
Potholes do of course mean puddles, and in drier months, birds will use any puddles they can find for drinking and bathing. The upgrading of many of the larger tracks to metalled roads has seen many traditional puddles lost.
Note that your hire car insurance will not cover any damage to the underside of your vehicle. Take care!
Petrol
Petrol is readily available across the island during normal shop hours. Some petrol stations in larger towns will be open through the day and evening, but in remoter areas most close early afternoon and open again late afternoon/early evening. Many stations (especially rural ones) close on public holidays and on Sundays. Also be aware that petrol stations frequently run out of unleaded petrol, so do not run your tank dangerously low.
If you’re returning your car to the airport on departure, there is only one petrol station on the airport side of Mytilini (right on the edge of town on the one-way coastal strip. Best to fill up at one of the many stations on your way into Mytilini including at Keramia (8 km out of Mytilini) when returning from the Kalloni area.
Getting to and from the airport through Mytilini
If you are collecting and returning your car from the airport, then you will have to drive through Mytilini – easier said than done! It is recommended that you use a satnav, Google maps or Apple maps both give directions if you don’t have a specific app. Just make sure you have plenty of battery or a chargng cable.
View map and directions
Here are some books and maps to help you plan for, and get the most of your visit to Lesvos. We cannot guarantee the availability or if still in print of any title.
BOOKS
A Birdwatching Guide to Lesvos by Steve Dudley (now out of print but some hotels and shops on the island may still have stock)
Landscapes of Lesvos: walks and car tours by Brian & Eileen Anderson
Lesvos : A Visitors Guide by Brian Anderson and Eileen Anderson
Lesvos : The Island of Sappho by Mimi Eleftheriadi
Lesvos (Landmark Visitor Guide) by Brian & Eileen Anderson
On Foot in North Lesvos by Mike Maunder & Sigrid van der Zee
On Foot – Circular Walks on Lesvos by Mike Maunder & Sigrid van der Zee
The Rough Guide to the Dodecanese and East Aegean: includes Rhodes, Kos, Samos and Lesvos by Marc S. Dubin
MAPS
Lesbos (Freytag & Berndt) 1:50,000
Lesbos Road Map Road Editions Map 212 1:80,000 – reprinted at a new scale
Lesvos ~ Road Map (Supersedes Road Editions Map 212 Lesbos) 1:105,000 by Orama Editions
Lesvos Birders 